First things first. I assume no responsibility or liability for damages incurred by the use of this write up. I made it for reference only.
If you are not somewhat a seasoned mechanic, have some electrical knowledge, then I suggest you have it professional installed.
Some facts that are needed to know so you have a better understanding of how to install your kit.
WHAT IS NITROUS OXIDE?
…Is a cryogenic gas composed of nitrogen and oxygen molecules
…Is 36% oxygen by weight
…Is non-flammable by itself
…Is stored as a compressed liquid
…Exists in two grades—U.S.P. and Nitrous Plus:
...U.S.P. is medical grade nitrous oxide; its common use is dental and veterinary anesthesia. It is also commonly used as a propellant in canned whipped cream. U.S.P. is not available to the public.
...Nitrous Plus differs from U.S.P. in that it contains trace amounts of sulfur dioxide added to prevent substance abuse. Nitrous Plus is intended for automotive applications and is available for sale to the public
-In automotive applications, Nitrous Plus and fuel are injected into the engine’s intake manifold, which produces the following results:
...Lowers engine intake air temperature, producing a dense inlet charge.
...Increases the oxygen content of the inlet charge (air is only 22 percent oxygen by weight).
...Increases the rate at which combustion occurs in the engine’s cylinders.
-Do’s and Don’ts of Nitrous Oxide
...Make sure your fuel delivery system is adequate for the nitrous jetting you have chosen. Inadequate fuel pressure or flow will result in engine damage. Need at least 43 PSI fuel pressure. -< Very important!!
...Use 14 gauge (minimum) wire when installing electrical system components. I used 12 AWG wire.
...Use high-quality connections at all electrical joints.
...Use Teflon-based paste on pipe type fittings.
...Make sure your engine and related components (ignition, carburetor, and drive line) are in proper working condition.
...If nitrous is accidentally injected into the engine when it is not running, remove the engine coil wire, open the throttle, and crank the engine 10 to 15 seconds before starting. Failure to do so can result in an explosive engine failure.
...Use your NOS nitrous system only at wide-open throttle and at engine speeds above 3000 RPM.
...Install a proper engine to chassis ground. Failure to do so may result in an explosive failure of the main nitrous supply line.
...Use a high-quality fuel.
...Engage your nitrous system with the engine off. Severe engine damage can occur.
...Overtighten AN type fittings.
...Use Teflon Tape on any pipe threads. Pieces of Teflon tape can break loose and become lodged in nitrous or fuel solenoids or solenoid filters. Debris lodged in a nitrous or fuel solenoid can cause catastrophic engine failure.
...Use sealant of any kind on AN type fittings.
...Inhale nitrous oxide. Death due to suffocation can occur.
...Allow nitrous oxide to come in contact with skin. Severe frostbite can occur.
...Use octane boosters that contain methanol. Fuel solenoid failure may occur, producing severe engine damage
NOTE: Remember to use Teflon paste only on pipe threads.
WARNING: Nitrous oxide can cause death if inhaled. Severe frostbite can occur if allowed to contact the skin. Always point the nitrous line opening away from people when purging the line.
HINT: The micro switch may be mounted to the bracket in a variety of positions and on either side of the bracket. The bracket may be bent to suit the application.
NOTE: When selecting an ignition switched +12V source, ensure that your source is capable of handling the amperage of the fuse provided by NOS.
Increase horsepower on a budget with NOS Sniper EFI nitrous kits.
NOS Sniper EFI wet nitrous kits are the perfect upgrades for budget-minded builders who want the easy bolt-on power that made nitrous famous. Sniper EFI kits feature the exclusive NOS soft-plume fogger nozzle that finely atomizes the fuel for superior nitrous and fuel distribution. Sniper kits include all necessary installation components and will provide up to 75 hp in 4 and 6-cylinder engines.
Never permit oil, grease, or any other readily combustible substances to come in contact with cylinders, valves, solenoids, hoses, and fittings. Oil and certain gases (such as oxygen and nitrous oxide) may combine to produce highly flammable condition.
Never interchange nitrous and fuel solenoids. Failure to follow these simple instructions can result in extreme
engine damage and/or personal injury.
Never drop or violently strike the bottle. Doing so may result in an explosive bottle failure.
Never change pressure settings of safety relief valve on the nitrous bottle valve. Increasing the safety relief valve pressure settings may create an explosive bottle hazard.
Do not deface or remove any markings, which are on the nitrous bottle.
Nitrous bottle valves should always be closed when the system is not being used.
It is important that all threads on the valves and solenoids are properly mated. Never force connections that do not fit properly.
NOTE: This nitrous oxide injection system injects a mixture of nitrous oxide and fuel into the air intake duct. Make sure you set it up as instructions called for, or, poor mixture distribution can occur, resulting in variations of air to fuel ratio from cylinder to cylinder.
When used correctly, these kits will work with stock internal engine components. To ensure proper performance and engine life, the following is an absolute must:
If the vehicle is to be exposed to severe operating conditions, such as drag strip usage, the standard clutch should be replaced with a high performance unit.
If the vehicle is to be exposed to severe operating conditions, such as drag strip usage, a reputable high-performance transmission shop should service the automatic transmission.
The kit I bought was a NOS Sniper Universal EFI Wet Kit.
NOS Sniper Kit
My list that came with the kit.
(1) 4AN Bottle Nut Adapter
(2) Bottle Nut Teflon Washer
(3) #10 N2O Bottle
(4) #10 Bottle Bracket Set
(5) Soft Plume Nozzle
(6) Soft Plume Nozzle Adapter
(7) Soft Plume Nozzle Adapter Nut
(8) Nitrous Solenoid
(9) 1/4” NPT x 4AN N2O Filter
(10) 1 ft. 4AN Hose (Blue)
(11) Fuel Solenoid
(12) 1/8” NPT x 4AN Fuel Filter
(13) 1 ft. 4AN Hose (Red)
(14) Solenoid Mounting Bracket w/ screws
(15) Flare Jets 12 13750-26,-28,-30,-33,-34,-38 -40
(16) 16 ft. 4AN Hose (Blue)
(17) Micro switch
(18) Toggle Arming Switch
(19) Wiring Relay—30 AMP
(20) Harness for Wiring Relay with 15 AMP Fuse
(21) 1 ft. 4AN Hose (Red)
(22) 1/16” NPT x 4AN Fitting
Total price for Nitrous kit was 305.00. Really good deal. bought it Off of ebay. No shipping costs.
Extra stuff I bought to make system even better.
1- 10-50 adjustable fuel pressure safety switch. Good to have, no fuel present, it will not let the nitrous are fuel solenoids open. I choose to do both solenoids. This was purchased at jegs.com -42.00$
PSI Switch website
1- RPM adjustable activation window switch. I have this set at close on 3000 RPMS ,and open at 6000 RPMS. This way even with the system on, and mirco switch is made, at WOT(Wide Open Throttle), the nitrous will still not come on until I am at least at 3000 RPMS. This was purchased at ebay.
1- Fuel pressure gauge. 10-100 PSI rating.- 2”1/16 or 52MM. Can always monitor your fuel pressure this way. -46.99$
1- Nitrous pressure gauge. 100-2000 PSI- 2”1/16 or 52MM. Always know the bottle pressure. 35.00$
1-4AN stainless steel line- 8FT. This is for my pressure gauge. This was purchased locally. 30.00$
1- Boost gauge 0-60 PSI- 2”1\16 or 52MM -39.99$
1- A/F gauge- 2”1/16 or 52mm -47.99$
1- Water temp. gauge- 2”/16 or 52mm -39.99$
1-Oil Pressure gauge- 2”/16 or 52MM -44.99$
1-Glow shift sandwich adapter -27.99$
1-Glow shift Water Sender Attachment -14.99$
1-Triple Pillar Pod. Got off ebay for 11.99$
1-DASHBOARD GAUGE FRAME 2 POD This fits around steering wheel and holds 2 gauges. Got off ebay for 8.99$
1-Auto meter 2-hole-2”/16, off of ebay for 11.99$
All gauges are from glow shift gauges.com, except for the nitrous pressure gauge. I got this off of ebay. I used the Reversed White 7 Color gauges.
Glow Shift website
Teflon paste. 5.99$ Local parts store
Battery Terminal quick Disconnect Switches. $5.99 x 2- Local parts store
White Grease for electrical plugs. 2.99$- local parts store.
Alternator High Output-150amps $185.00- ebay
Set Poly Motor Engine, Trans mount 45.00$ - got off ebay
Set of OBX Reinforce Radiator Hose Hoses Kit Blue. $65.00 got off of ebay
1-Walbro Fuel Pump, 255 LPH 99.99$--got off of ebay
1-Timing belt, and water pump off of ebay. 75.99$
Went ahead and did maintenance on it before the install to make sure everything was up to par.
As you can see I bought a lot of extra stuff, but I wanted to install it correct, and be able to monitor as much as I could also at the same time. In my opinion, take no short cuts. If you don’t have the cash to do it right, then save up for it before installing it. No sense in adding a aftermarket upgrade, no matter if it’s nitrous or turbo and blow your motor up and waste all that money you just spent because you took shortcuts.
Always sit down and draw out a plan, with intentions of how it will work, and how your going to hook it up. No matter what your going to add to your car. Always have a plan and a goal.
OK, now that we have all that out the way, I will show you how I installed everything on the 420a.
-1”1/8 Wrench- this is for bottle nut
-Drill with metal bits to get through firewall.
-Wood paddle bits. Used for wires going to gauge pods
-Rubber grommet's 1” ones and 7/8” ones
-Silicone. I used this to fill in the inside of the grommet's when I was done, to cut down on any air penetrating into the cab.
-7/16 Metal bit for 4AN line
-5/16 metal bit for wires to and from activation switch, or relays
-Screwdrivers, both Phillips and Flatheads, big and small.
-Nut drivers. Ranging from 11/32,1/4,5/16,3/8
-Sockets ranging from MM,10MM,12MM,13MM,7/16,1/2,9/16,
-Self tapping screws(10 or 15 should be sufficient)
-4 -1/4" thread bolts for bottle brackets. (did not come with kit)
-Numerous size drill bits (not required, but big help on pre drilling holes for solenoids, and so on)
-Lots of butt connectors, spade terminals, both male and female.
-Yellow, blue, rings terminals
-Extra fuses, 15, 20 AMP-----NOT 30 AMP
-Wire loom(if you wish) not required. But I recommend.
- Volt meter or test light.
- 30 FT of extra wire. 12AWG is best, even thought 14AWG is only what it calls for.
-Teflon paste. –Do not use Teflon tape. This will break loose and clog your solenoids.
-Bench vise (helps if you have one to hold solenoids while tighten fittings)
-White grease. Used this on my electrical plugs and battery terminals. Really helps cut out on corrosion.
-Air compressor, or a bottle of air with at least 80 pounds of air. This way you will not waste nitrous when leak testing!
Wow, what a list, huh. Don’t get mind boggled. I have a lot of tools and more. More you have, the easier it is to work on something. :y:
These cam in handy.
Remove the battery, battery trey and, zip tie all the OEM wires up and out of the way going to the battery. You will need to remove this to get access to the firewall for drilling holes and running wires and hoses. Also you need this moved so you can tap into your CAI, (if you have one) or your stock intake pipe with the soft plunger. We will get to that later.
Next thing I done was started working in the engine bay. I found the 4AN cap on my fuel rail, removed the cap and installed the 4AN SS hose that came with my kit. It was about 12” long.
This usually goes straight to the fuel solenoid, but since I wanted to have a fuel pressure gauge, and a fuel pressure safety switch, I had to make a set up for that. I used 1/8” tee’s and nipples to make this. Then I made a 4AN hose, about 12” to go from my set up, to the fuel solenoid. Don’t forget on the “IN” side of the fuel solenoid, it gets a 4ANx1/8” fitting that has a filter in it. Basically it’s just a piece of screen to protect the solenoid. This should come with your kit.
CAUTION! When removing the Schrader valve from the fuel rail test port, use caution. Fuel in the rail is under high pressure. Never remove the Schrader valve when the engine is hot.
If it does have a test port, then you can follow this.
1. Identify the location of the fuel rail “test port” on the fuel rail.
2. Remove the protective cap from the test port. Remove the Schrader valve from the test port using a tire valve core tool.
If you do not have a fuel test port then follow this:
Fuel Supply Connection by Tapping Fuel Rail
NOTE: If your vehicle’s fuel rail is not equipped with a test port, the fuel rail will need to be removed and tapped for the 1/16”NPT x 4AN fitting. My 96 420a did have a test port. So it was all good. But if you don’t have one, you will have to follow these instructions.
CAUTION! Before attempting any modifications to the fuel rail, make sure that enough wall thickness is available to achieve 3 to 4 threads of engagement during the tapping operation. This would be equivalent to 0.120” (3.00mm) to 0.150” (4.00mm) wall thickness.
A. Select a location for the 1/16” NPT x 4AN fitting on the fuel rail. Make sure that the fitting and line are clear of all engine components.
B. Remove the fuel rail from the engine. Remove the fuel injectors and regulator (if applicable) from the fuel rail. Drill a 1/4” hole in the fuel rail, making sure that the hole is perpendicular to the mounting surface, and that the hole penetrates into the fuel rail reservoir.
C. Tap the 1/4” hole with the 1/16” NPT tap. De-burr entry and exit hole edges.
D. Remove all debris from the fuel rail.
E. Install the 1/16” NPT x 4AN fitting in the tapped hole. Use Teflon paste to avoid fuel leaks.
F. Re-install the fuel injectors and regulator. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the o-rings.
G. Install the fuel rail on the engine
CAUTION! All debris must be removed from the fuel rail. Failure to do so will result in an engine failure.
Here is a picture of my set up:
-Here you can see the fuel sender unit, and the fuel pressure safety switch. Then it exits there, and goes to the fuel solenoid. This way if my fuel pressure drops below 50 PSI, it opens the circuit, and my Nitrous system is deactivated. Also I can always see from my sender there, (on the left in the pic) my fuel pressure is for the gauge inside my car.
Make sure you if you set something like this up, the fuel pressure sender, (that goes to your fuel pressure gauge), is before, the safety cut off. Will do you no good, if you have it installed down stream of the safety cut off.
The next bit is very important. Follow this step by step.
~ drink a beer, or smoke a cigarette. Scratch your ass, and go hmmmmm. Now your ready for next level.
OK, back to the easy stuff. :P
Now it’s time to mount your fuel and nitrous solenoids. Our cars are not semi trucks, so we don’t have a lot of room. I used the firewall to mount and run all my fuel lines, and nitrous lines, and both solenoids.
I mounted my fuel solenoid first, since I had this 4AN line already run from my set up. Then I hooked up the “out” to the fuel solenoid. This line is about 12” and SS with red ends on both ends. 1 end is a male, and the other a female. The male end screws into the ‘OUT’ of the fuel solenoid. Once you have this tight, lay it to side, or out of the way.
Now it’s time to run your 4AN SS hose from your bottle to your solenoid. Comes with kit and is about 16 foot in length. So keep that in mind when looking for a suitable place to mount your bottle. Figure out where you want mount your bottle. In the hatchback is ideal, but was not for me. I have a sub box that takes up the entire trunk area. So I mounted my bottle behind the passenger seat. Since I'm not going leave it there, I ran my 4AN SS hose under the center console, and out the firewall to my N2O solenoid. You do not have to actually mount the bottle right now, just need to know where your going to,so you can stub your 4AN SS hose up there.
It’s recommended to run the 4AN SS supply hose under your car and up to your N2O solenoid that way. But I did not want to drill a hole in my floor board to run my line. So this is why I went under my center console.
Some cars have plugs back there, that can be knocked out, but im not sure about ours since I did not run it that way. The hatchback im speaking of. If you want to, go ahead and take the time to mount the bottle, will save time later.
Bottle placement is critical to the performance of your NOS nitrous system. It is important to understand how the bottle valve and siphon tube are assembled to properly orient the bottle in your vehicle and ensure that it picks up liquid nitrous while undergoing acceleration. All NOS nitrous bottles are assembled so that the bottom of the siphon tube is at the bottom of the bottle and opposite the bottle label
If the bottle must be mounted parallel to the axles of the vehicle (sideways), the valve handle and label must be angled at approximately 45° toward the front of the vehicle. This orientation will position the siphon tube toward the rear of the bottle.
NOTE: When using a bottle with a siphon tube, the tall bracket should be at the valve end of the bottle and the short bracket at the bottom.
Accurate calibration of your NOS nitrous system depends on the bottle remaining at a stable temperature. In vehicles where the bottle must be mounted in an area subject to high solar loading, it is suggested that the bottle be shielded with a bottle blanket.
Additionally, the safety blow-down valve must be vented externally from the cockpit. This procedure will prevent the passenger compartment from filling with a cloud of nitrous oxide if the safety pressure relief cap should happen to rupture for any reason.
Now mount your Nitrous solenoid. Both solenoids comes with brackets that can bend 90 degrees and have screw holes in the bottom to attach to the solenoids themselves. Once you have the N2O(nitrous) solenoid mounted, install the blue 4ANx1/8” male fitting on the “IN” of the solenoid. This fitting also has a filter(screen) in it too.
Next, attach the 4AN SS hose that you just ran from your bottle to the “IN” side of the N20 solenoid. Do not forget and keep in mind, do not over tighten your fittings. Use the Teflon paste, and do not over tighten.
I did mine hand tight, then maybe ¼ or a ½ turn with the wrench. Don’t worry, we are going to leak test. You can always re-tighten them up some more, if they leak. Now attach the 4AN blue SS hose, it’s also about 12” long to the ”OUT” of the N20 solenoid. Lay it aside also, out of the way.
Now, we need to stop installing our plumbing and start in on our electrical. We don’t want to get ahead of ourselves, and why we have all this room since the battery is removed, we can run the wires, get them hooked up, and do some leak testing. Then go back to finish up the plumbing part of the set up.
Follow your exact wiring digram that came with your kit to a tee. Do not drift away from that diagram. If you want to add or remove electrical componts, you can do that later. If you do it now, then once you have it all hooked up and it don’t work, your going be lost.
Hook it up just like the kit says so. Get it working, then add or remove your additional components one at a time, testing between each install. This will cut down on ¾ of your time if it doesn't work. Because you can always go back to what you just hooked up and bypass it to make it work again, instead of trying to trouble shoot 5 or 6 electrical components when it fails. It’s a lot easier this way. Little more time consuming on install, but a time saver on the back end.
Here is a basic diagram of what a kit should look like.
Lets start with the electrical harness. I used the battery for the +12V with a inline fuse that was provided with kit to power my relay. I used the -12V of the battery to my ground on the relay. Hooked everything else up just as picture shows. DO NOT INSTALL THE 15 AMP FUSE INTO THE FUSE HOLDER YET.
Once I was done with this, instead of grounding the solenoids themselves, this is where I added my electrical components. I tied the grounds together from the solenoids with a butt connector, then on the other side of the butt connector I ran a wire to my fuel pressure switch, then I left the fuel pressure switch and went to my rpm activation switch.
Im actually using the ground wire as you can see to complete all my circuits. Once the Mirco switch is made at WOT, it then goes to the fuel pressure switch, if this switch is made it goes to my rpm activation switch and will only close at 3000 RPMS. Once it’s closed, I have N2O spraying until 6000 RPMS, when the switch then again opens, the circuit is deactivated.
Before any of this can take place, my activation switch inside my cab, has to be on also. This is on a toggle switch.
So you see, you can not just turn the switch on and spray N02. which you Would not want do this anyhow. The kit can be installed and used right out the box just using a mirco switch and a toggle, that it came with, and it will work. But I like to be a little more safer, and have more control over my system, than that.
Go inside your cab and find a place to mount your toggle switch that came with the kit, or a different type of toggle, if you choose. Mount it, and hook up the wires just as the diagram shows.
As this point, the fuse should still not be installed in your relay harness. On the other side of the toggle you will have to find a switched +12V source. Should be able to run a wire to the fuse panel under the dash on the driver side adequate enough for this.
Zip tie all wires up so your feet don’t get tangled in them when your driving, and so you cannot see them. Don’t be cheap here, zip tie them up so you cannot see them also. Make it a good looking install job. Take the time to do it right. Temporaily install your batter back for leak testing, or use jumper cables from the battery to the battery terminals. :soapbox:
Turn on the key to the car, but do not start it. Should hear your fuel pump for a few seconds. Go look under the hood at all your fuel line fittings, connections, and see if anything is leaking. If something is leaking, go turn the key off, and re-tighten the fittings. In some cases you might actually have to take apart some fittings if you have a tee in the middle leaking.
Once you have fixed all your leaks, turn the key back on. Now keep in mind, if you did not have any leaks, or if you did, and you had to open the system, sometimes the fuel pump will not come on when the key is turned on again.
This is where having a fuel pressure gauge is a big help. Because you might think you don’t have anymore leaks, when in all reality, the fuel pressure is only about 10 PSI, because the pump did not come back on. Fooling you into thinking you have no leaks. If you have no fuel pressure gauge inside your car, remove the 4AN SS hose on your test port, and hook up a line with a fuel gauge there. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel pressure test port or the 4AN fitting that you installed in the fuel rail/ Or install a fuel pressure gauge inside for monitoring.
Now, start your car. Record the fuel pressure, (WRITE IT DOWN), You must have a way to record this, because you will need this information to size up your fuel and N20 jets.
Leak check the fuel system at full fuel pressure. What ever your car calls for. (1996)-420A should be around 44-50 PSI. Once you have full fuel pressure, and no leaks, your in good shape.
Fuel pressure should not deviate more than 4-5 psi when the fuel side of the nitrous system is activated.
If the fuel pressure drop is greater than this, a supplemental fuel pump will be required. Turn the car off, and remove the battery or cables.
Now lets finish the install. Need to install your mirco switch to your throttle body. The wires should already be there since you ran them earlier.
Its a lot easier to remove the TB from the intake, to install the switch and bracket. So remove the TB, and install the switch and mount the bracket, should be along the lines in this picture.
-Once you have it on there, do not tighten down the bolt holding the bracket all the way down. Turn the part that the accerlator cable hooks to until it makes contact with the switch, and you hear a click. Make sure when you hear a click, its when its at WOT. Not before. Keep moving it back until at WOT it will not make the switch click, and then move it forward just a bit, and tighten down the bolt holding the bracket.
Test it again, and again. Make sure it only clicks at WOT. Now before you install the TB back to the IMF, hook up the wires to the mirco switch like the digram calls for. Pay attention when bolting back the TB, because the bottom end on the bracket holding the mirco switch is really close to the first injector on the fuel rail, and you don’t want to screw that plug up. It will fit, just use caution, and take your time.
Re-install the TB and hook up your electrical wires for the TPS and IAC, and your vacuum line.
Now its time to leak check your nitrous fittings, solenoids. Keep in mind, that there is no way an air compressor. or a bottle of air can produce 1600 pounds of pressure. This is just to help if u have a major leak somewhere, and don’t want to waste nitrous.
Have to have some special fittings to hook to the 4AN feed line to a airline. Once you have this hooked up, pump some air in the stem. Look and listen for leaks. If you find one, then re-tighten as needed. Keep in mind, that when you actually hook the bottle up, you may have a leak at your solenoid. 1600 pounds of PSI can make leaks if it’s not tight enough.
Now lets mount your soft plunger into your CAI or OEM elbow, right before the TB. You can either drill and tap the plunger into the elbow, if it’s hard plastic or metal, or, drill a hole and use the nut and fittings that came with your kit to mount it. Remember, when your done tighten the plunger, make sure it points directly at the center of the butterfly flapper inside the TB. Mount the plunger on the battery side of the elbow, do not want to mount it where the spray is being restricted.
Instructions on installing your soft plunger:
NOTE: The recommended mounting location for the Soft Plume nozzle is in the air inlet duct, between the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor (in applications where a mass airflow sensor is used). In certain applications where the throttle body is an integrate part of the air cleaner housing, install the nozzle between the throttle body and the intake manifold.
If possible, install the nozzle between 6 and 12 inches before the throttle body or any major turn in the air inlet duct.
1. Before making any permanent modifications to the vehicle, layout the location of all the major components (solenoid,nozzle, fuel/nitrous supply lines, etc.)
2. Select the desired mounting location for the Soft Plume Nozzle, taking into account the length of the nitrous and fuel supply hoses and the intended location of the solenoids. Take into account that the nozzle adapter needs to be restrained during final installation, and accessibility of a tool is important. Make sure the nozzle and feed lines will not interfere with engine components or accessories and will not interfere with the hood when closed. The nozzle should not move from the perpendicular position in the air inlet duct due to strain induced by the nitrous and/or fuel supply hose.
3. Remove the air inlet duct.
4. Metal Mounting Surface: Drill a 1/4” hole perpendicular to the centerline of the inlet duct. Tap the hole using a 1/16” NPT tap. Tap depth should be deep enough, so that the discharge orifice of the nozzle is completely submerged into duct, but not so deep that the Soft Plume nozzle bottoms out.
CAUTION! All debris must be removed from the air inlet duct. Use compressed air, if available. Failure to do so can result in severe engine damage.
B. Rubber/Hard Plastic Mounting Surface: Drill a 7/16” hole perpendicular to the inlet duct centerline through the inlet duct. Insert the Soft Plume nozzle adapter into the 7/16” hole with the head inside the duct. Use Loctite or a similar compound on the nozzle adapter threads and securely tighten the nozzle adapter nut to the nozzle adapter
CAUTION! Severe engine damage can occur if the nozzle adapter / nozzle assembly works loose from the air inlet duct.
Ensure that the Soft Plume nozzle is securely tightened in the air duct.
5. Note the discharge side of the Soft Plume nozzle. Install the Soft Plume nozzle in the inlet duct with the discharge side pointed toward the engine (downstream or in the direction of the induced air stream). Use Teflon paste to ensure adequate sealing.
Make sure you have it far enough up that the battery will not hit it!!!!!
Hook up the 4AN red line from the out, of the fuel solenoid to the Fuel side of the plunger. Don’t forget to put in the correct fuel jet.
Install your 15 AMP fuse into the fuse holder for your realy.
Hook battery back up, start your car, and Turn the arming switch on.(toggle) Briefly activate the micro switch. Engine speed should decrease, if the fuel delivery system is performing properly.
Should only be spraying fuel at this point. If not then re-check your electrical connections.
Turn car off. Mount your bottle if you have not done so. Hook up your nitrous feed line to your bottle, and turn it on. Inspect for leaks at the bottle and at the N20 solenoid.
Open the nitrous bottle valve. Inspect the nitrous lines and fittings for leaks. If you here none, then lets test and make sure it works. DO NOT HOOK UP THE N02 LINE FORM THE SOLENOID TO THE PLUNGER YET!!
Do not start your car, just turn on the key. turn on the toggle switch, open bottle, press accelerator to floor and you should here nitrous coming out of the 4AN blue like exit of solenoid. If so, then you can install your correct size N20 jet, and attach the blue 4AN to the plunger NOS side.
Do not spray nitrous into the motor when it’s not running, or when not at WOT.
CAUTION! Never activate your nitrous system below 3000 engine RPM.
Now your ready to spray the hell out of it.
Install your battery trey, and battery back, make sure when you put your battery back in the car, not to hit the plunger. Go take it for a test run.
Thats basically it, feel free to ask me anything if you wanna know, or if i missed something. Here are some pics of the finished work.
For my Temp. Sensor, + my pretty blue hoses. :flute:
My sandwich adapter for my oil pressure gauge:
All credit for this writeup goes to: -LA-