How To: Replace Driver side motor mount on a 2g 4G63T with a urethane mount.
There are more than just one way to replace this, so if you or someone else you know has done it another way, good for him/her.
Disclaimer: If your car blows up after you followed my instructions (or didnít) I am not liable for anything. This is just to help the n00bs out.
Time Required: Dependant on how long it takes you to remove the rubber and ring from the old mount. Estimated 30mins to 1 hr.
1. PB blaster
2. Jack and jack stands
3. ĹĒ Driver and socket set in metric (you will be using 14mm and 17mm mostly)
4. torque wrench
5. Flathead screwdriver
6. Rubber mallet
7. Some sort of reciprocating saw
8. Piece of wood (for jacking on oil pan)
Step 0: Hit all the bolts/nuts with PB blaster (it might help doing the day before)
*Repeat this process as many times as needed during the install.
Step 1: Disconnect negative battery terminal.
Step 2: Jack up car and place on jack stands.
Step 3: Place piece of wood on jack and support the oil pan. You donít need to keep jacking, it is just there for support.
Step 4: On my car there was 1 nut, and 2 bolts (14mm) that you will need to break loose and remove. These are obviously what hold the mount to the motor. I found it easier to use a deepwell socket for the nut.
You will also need to remove the through-bolt that bolts the mount to the chassis (17mm).
Step 5: Pull out the mount
You can see how bad mine was.
Step 6: Here comes one of the fun parts. You will need to remove the metal ring that sits inside the mount. There are many ways to do this, but I found the easiest way is by using the reciprocating saw. BUT for you guys, your mount is still probably somewhat intact. Mine was so shitty that I pushed on the rubber with my finger gently and the inner part fell out!!!
You are probably not as lucky as me and will need to drill holes in the rubber to weaken it. You just want to get the rubber out of the way really, so that u can use the reciprocating saw. When using the saw, you want to be careful and only cut the ring and not start cutting the mount itself.
Step 7: After cutting the inner ring in 1 or 2 places you will take a flathead screwdriver and rubber mallet and try to get the ring out. It should come out easily now that itís weakened.
Step 8: Put in both sides of your urethane replacement. I tapped mine in with the rubber mallet.
Step 9: Tap in the provided sleeve through. No grease is required.
Step 10: You are now ready to put the mount back in the car. Place the mount back in place. This part can get a little annoying as it is hard to line everything back up.
I found it easiest to lower the engine by lowering the oil pan with the jack enough to line the through bolt hole up. Once you get the through bolt back in, donít tighten it yet. You can now jack the engine up a little bit and secure the nut and 2 bolts on the mount. Torque them to proper specs. It is recommended to use thread locking compound.
Once they are torqued, you can torque the through bolt.
This is what it should look like when you are done.
Step 11: Un-jack oil pan
Step 12: Lower your car off of jack stands
Step 13: Reconnect battery
I hope this write up was some help to anyone needing it, and I might add the other mounts later when I have time to actually do them myself.
Please, comment and criticize, and add anything else needed to this to make it a helpful guide.