Thread: 2G Crossmember Problem - Front Bolts/Holes are stripped

Yeah,
Looks like I shall have to do 2 things:
1st - I need to find a 12MM x 1.25 Recoil Kit that doesn't break the bank too bad.
2nd - I think I may stick with (2) more stock bolts from Mitsubishi, but not sure yet.

Also, I am expecting a call back from a guy at a local Fastenal store about what he can offer me...

Originally Posted by electric ride

I probably don't need to tell you but just in case be sure you use tapping oil . I have used WD40 in place of it but you HAVE to use oil to help reduce the friction . I also when doing hand tapping will back my tap out several times to help keep the threads of my tap clean this way . You are alot less likely to break a tap .

+1 very good advice.. Red, I wish I lived closer to you, I'd be there in a heartbeat.

Thanks Eclipse 67 2 positive reps in 24 hrs . How cool is that LOL . Thanks guys

Wow that's pretty bad, what i did on my gsx (same problem when i bought it) was remove the radiator and harness out of the way. Then broke the old nuts that are tacked in and welded in new ones (same thread size/pitch as the oem bolts) and called it a day. Kind of a pain but i had plenty of time to do it. Helicoil is pretty strong, ive used it to fix threads on a few transmissions and heads (dam studs always break for the exhaust manifold). I would look into time serts as from what i have heard are very tough and reliable.

Yeah, just looked up timeserts ( ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads ).

Looks like a pretty good solution.
Cheapest price I could find for a 12mm x 1.25 Kit (Part # 1212) is $84.99, from a place called TOOLSQUiK, via Amazon.com.
Time is more of an issue to me now, so I may call around in the morning first to see if I can find it locally.

Ok, I ordered a "Timesert 12mm x 1.25 Thread Repair Kit" (Part # 1212) , for the Crossmember holes, from my local Fastenal and that probably won't come in until Wednesday.
(It will cost about $85.)
Also, picked up (2) new OEM crossmember bolts from Mitsubishi today.
After the fact, I got under there and looked again: Turns out the driver-side hole still has good gripping action and it is just rough on the bolts when you take them back out.
On the other hand, the passenger-side hole destroys bolts and I just figured out why: There is a Helicoil in there that is coming out. I pulled it out with a needle nose pliers.
After learning that, I took another look in the driver-side hole and I can see that one has a helicoil in there as well. The driver-side one looks like it is still intact.
The previous owner must have installed the helicoils & it looks like he installed them from the top, maybe by removing the radiator and harness the same way Clockworktoy did, as described just above.
So, I am thinking I should only mess with the passenger-side hole for now.
I guess when I get the Timesert Kit, I will skip the 1st step (drilling) and just go straight to the 2nd step (countersinking), and then carefully perform step 3 (tapping - actually just running thru to clean the already previously helicoil-tapped threads), and then hopefully step 4 (screwing the Timesert in) will go smooth.
I hope, after seeing that the hole has already been repaired once....

Ugh...its stuff like finding out someone has already messed with it, that just ruins everything.

Yeah, I know, right?
Timesert recommends their other product (The "Bigsert" kit) for holes that have been previously repaired.
So, now I am concerned that maybe I should have ordered the "Bigsert" kit (part# 5212) instead, which probably cost just as much, if not more.
The Bigsert kit has slightly greater diameter drill & tap, so now I'm also concerned with whether I am getting too close to the diameter of the "welded-in-place" nuts that are in the holes...
Anyone know more about the specs of those holes/nuts?

The specs for the repair kits are as follows:

Timesert 12mm x 1.25 (Part# 1212) -> Drill = 31/64 (.484) Tap = .540

Bigsert 12mm x 1.25 (Part# 5212) -> Drill = 37/64 (.578) Tap = .634

The Bigsert is a little bigger diameter, so my concern is that I may be getting close to compromising the welded-in-place nuts that are in the holes.

On the hole in question, I gently pulled/uncoiled the helicoil from the hole, so I am half thinking, contrary to Timesert's advice, that maybe I can just use the standard Timesert Kit, skip Step 1 (drilling), and perform the rest of the steps carefully.
On the other hand, I am Half-tempted to call back Fastenal and cancel the Timesert kit & order the Bigsert kit...

Ahhhhhh, I am so confused!!!!

Originally Posted by Clockworktoy

Wow that's pretty bad, what i did on my gsx (same problem when i bought it) was remove the radiator and harness out of the way. Then broke the old nuts that are tacked in and welded in new ones (same thread size/pitch as the oem bolts) and called it a day. Kind of a pain but i had plenty of time to do it. Helicoil is pretty strong, ive used it to fix threads on a few transmissions and heads (dam studs always break for the exhaust manifold). I would look into time serts as from what i have heard are very tough and reliable.

Clockworktoy, Have ya seen my latest post/dilemma? Do you think if I use a Bigsert Kit (which is pushing the hole probably one wider then the Timesert Kit) that I would be getting too close to the diameter of those welded-in-place nuts that you mentioned? I contacted Mitsubishi, but they say they have no specs on that... Seems like you are the only person that I know that has actually seen these nuts up close...
???